The 2017 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert from Paul Jaboulet Aîné is a benchmark Northern Rhône Syrah from one of the oldest vineyard sites in the appellation. It displays a deep ruby color with a rich, intense bouquet of blackberry, cassis, plum, and licorice, accented by peppery spice, smoky black cherries, and dark leafy herbs. On the palate, it is full-bodied yet smooth, with a plush, velvety texture, moderate to fine tannins, and medium-plus acidity. Flavors include tart black cherry, raspberry, blueberry, and hints of olive tapenade and spices, culminating in a long, focused finish. The wine balances concentration and elegance, making it both approachable now and suitable for aging.
Food Pairings
The 2017 Domaine de Thalabert’s rich and intense profile pairs excellently with:
- Lamb: Roasted or grilled lamb, a classic match for its savory and spicy notes.
- Red meats: Beef ribeye or venison, which complement its bold fruit and earthy undertones.
- Game dishes: Wild boar or duck to enhance its smoky and herbal qualities.
- Vegetarian dishes: Grilled portobello mushrooms or lentil-based dishes with herbs.
- Cheeses: Aged cheeses like Comté or blue cheese to match its depth and complexity.
Critic Reviews
- KLWines: “There’s some real richness and a plush feel on the palate with a fine, elongated tannin drive. Super sleek. Great density and focus here. Will age very well.”
- Wine.com: Notes that top Crozes-Hermitage Syrahs, like Thalabert, exhibit “fleshy black fruit (currant, blackberry, and black cherry) and bay leaf qualities, notes of tar and stone,” highlighting its classic Rhône character.
- Wine Library: “It’s a rich, rounded, sumptuous beauty that has plenty of sweet fruit, moderate tannins, and a great finish. It’s not going to match the 2015, but it’s a…” (incomplete, but implies strong quality).
- Vivino: Rates it 91/100 from 7 critic reviews, describing it as “smooth, tannic, dry, and acidic,” with a rich and intense style.
- CellarTracker: “Full and fruity palate of red fruit with tart black cherry. Tannins are smooth but this can still age. Some bottle variation with these huge production wines.”
- YouTube Review: Suggests the wine is “probably good for 10 years, likely longer” due to its concentration and balance.
- The Wine Cellar Insider: Scores it 91/100, noting “smoky black cherries, peppery spice, and dark leafy herbs on the nose. On the medium…” (incomplete, but praises its aromatics).
- The Wine Society: “A rather classic vintage of this celebrated Crozes, with blueberry and raspberry fruit, lots of matter, ripe tannins and a long finish.”
- Wine-Clique: “Marked by scents of licorice, plum and cassis, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert is a full-bodied effort (although less full than the 2018).”
Drink Window
The 2017 Domaine de Thalabert is approachable now (2025) due to its smooth tannins and supple fruit but has significant aging potential. Critics suggest a drinking window of 2019 to 2030, with some estimating it could age well beyond, potentially to 2035, thanks to its concentration, balance, and fine tannin structure.
