The 2016 Château Cantemerle is a Fifth Growth (Cinquième Cru Classé) from the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, produced by a historic estate in the Haut-Médoc appellation. Located in the southern Médoc near Macau and Ludon, just below Margaux, the estate’s 94-hectare vineyard benefits from well-drained, gravelly soils ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon. This vintage is a refined, classic claret, showcasing a deep ruby color with violet highlights. The bouquet is opulent yet harmonious, offering black cherry, boysenberry, cassis, and blackcurrant, with notes of menthol, cedar, violets, tobacco, and sous-bois (forest floor). On the palate, it is medium-bodied with grainy, well-integrated tannins, vibrant acidity, and a pure, juicy fruit core. Aged for 12 months in 40% new French oak and an additional 4 months in vats, it balances freshness and structure with a long, clean, mineral-driven finish.
Food Pairings
The 2016 Château Cantemerle’s high tannin content, bright acidity, and rich fruit profile make it an excellent match for robust dishes. Recommended pairings include:
- Red meats: Classic roast beef, ribeye, or filet mignon, especially with peppery or bordelaise sauces to balance the tannins.
- Game: Venison, lamb roasts, or wild boar, which complement the wine’s earthy and spicy notes.
- Poultry: Darker cuts like duck or roasted pheasant, enhancing the wine’s menthol and cedar aromas.
- Cheeses: Firm cheeses like aged cheddar, Comté, or blue cheeses such as Gorgonzola, which pair with the wine’s fruit and structure.
- Mushroom dishes: Wild mushroom omelets or risottos, accentuating the wine’s mineral and forest floor notes.
Avoid starchy dishes like pasta or rice, as they may be overwhelmed by the wine’s intensity.
Critics’ Reviews
The 2016 vintage of Château Cantemerle has been widely praised by critics for its quality and value:
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- Wine Advocate (92–94 points): “The 2016 Cantemerle has a comparatively opulent bouquet of black cherries, boysenberry and light violet scents, touches of cedar and sous-bois emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. There is a touch of greenness here, although it does come across harmonious and there is a pleasing spiciness toward the finish. Fine.”
- James Suckling (94 points): “Plenty of menthol, blackberry and blackcurrant aromas in this elegant, medium-weight Haut-Médoc that’s got as much freshness as ripeness and a long, clean, mineral and herbal finish. An incredibly food-flexible wine! Drink or hold.”
- Decanter (Jane Anson, 93 points): “For me this is one of their best ever wines, totally living up to its fifth growth billing. Lovely and juicy with excellent tension, really walking that line. Menthol, cassis and cedar are framed by well-wrought tannins that bring the whole thing together and lead on to a juicy finish.”
- Vinous (Neal Martin): “The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, good depth of fruit, blackberry laced with cedar and graphite. One sample was missing a little precision, however, a second and third demonstrated much more precision and tension.” Drinking window: 2020–2030
- CellarTracker (91 points average): Community reviews praise its velvety texture, soft tannins, and blackberry notes after 6 hours of decanting, with some noting it as “one of the best Cantemerle” tasted. Others highlight a classic Bordeaux profile with red and blue fruits, graphite, and high acidity, though some found it lighter or with a touch of greenness.
- General consensus: Critics and consumers laud the 2016 for its balance, elegance, and value, with some noting it outperforms its price point. A few mention slight green or austere notes, likely due to the Cabernet Sauvignon’s structure in a cooler vintage.
Drink Window
The 2016 Château Cantemerle is approachable now with decanting (1–2 hours recommended) to soften its tannins but has significant aging potential due to its structure and acidity. Optimal drinking window: 2022–2045, with peak expression likely from 2027–2040. Critics suggest it will continue to evolve, rewarding patience with greater complexity.
Additional Notes
- Production: The estate produces approximately 400,000 bottles of the grand vin annually, with 160,000 bottles of the second wine, Les Allées de Cantemerle. The 2016 vintage reflects meticulous winemaking under consultant oenologist Eric Boissenot, with vinification in conical wood vats, stainless steel, and cement tanks.
- Terroir: The vineyard’s 92 hectares under vine are planted on silica-gravel soils, with the best Cabernet Sauvignon parcels near the château in the northwest. The estate’s southern location yields softer, less tannic wines compared to northern Médoc estates.
- Historical Context: Château Cantemerle, dating back to the 12th century, is one of Bordeaux’s oldest estates. Its inclusion in the 1855 Classification was controversial, added after owner Caroline de Villeneuve Durfort’s advocacy. The 2016 vintage is considered one of the estate’s finest since 2010, reflecting quality improvements under SMABTP ownership.
- Critical Evaluation: While some reviews note a “touch of greenness,” this may reflect the vintage’s cooler profile or Cabernet Sauvignon’s methoxypyrazine compounds, which can impart subtle green pepper notes. These are not flaws but part of the wine’s classic Haut-Médoc character. The high praise from Suckling and Anson suggests this is a standout for the price.
